• Fix Slice

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I just started playing golf again after a 5 year hiatus. I am 25 and played a lot in high school. A lot of my game has come through the break and I have shot between. The title says it all, although it's just woods in general, not just my driver. I'm very confident with my irons, I'm relatively strong and have.

The title says it all, although it's just woods in general, not just my driver. I'm very confident with my irons, I'm relatively strong and have stiff shafts which seem to accommodate my swing speed well. As far as I know they don't make stiffer shafts for woods, although I've only asked my dad about it. On the very rare occasion I do get all of a tee shot with my driver and don't slice it (honestly about 1 in 100) I'd say it goes about 310 yards on average, but I'm positive my record distance was closer to 340 (par 5, downhill and very windy). Ive tried everything as far as changing swing speeds, different stances, and different drivers, no matter what it's a slice. Because of this I've pretty much given up on woods and tee off with my 3 iron, I can still out drive most people I play with despite being the only one who doesn't use a driver. So I've got a couple questions.

Fix Slice

Is it okay to just completely give up on the wood game and use the extra space in my bag for some weird situational wedges or a lefty club for the 1 in a million situation where that would be necessary? Or is there a specific type of shaft for woods and drivers that cater to the most outrageous slice in the history of man kind? I'm also 90% sure the problem is just between the ears, any advice on just gaining confidence in the tee box in a general sense. I actually prefer a 1 iron to an extra wedge. I grew up with a two iron and the move the a 1 iron was pretty easy. Honestly, I can work the ball better than I can with a 3 or 5 wood, and I can still hit a knockdown shot if need be.

To your original point OP, I always recommend people to avoid new equipment for trying to fix what is likely a swing or setup flaw. The driver should be the hardest club in the bag to hit.

It has the least amount of loft and has the longest shaft. Have you looked into different ball position with the driver? How about putting the ball a little further away from you so you have to 'reach out' and get it? The good news is that you are consistently hitting a slice, so it is likely not an equipment issue, but probably setup.

If you look into all of the above and the situation still hasn't been remedied, look into getting a lesson. 50 bucks could save you a lot of money and a lot of strokes. 1, you do NOT drive 310 on average. Now that we got THAT ego check out of the way, your BESt bet is to get yourself to a club fitter and take some lessons.

Just becuase you think you have a really fast swing speed, doesn't mean you need an extra stiff shaft. (I GAINED yardage by going from an out of control 125 SS to smooth, yet well timed 115 mph. Tempo is everything) 2, they make stiffer shafts. There are a bazzillon types out there and I guarantee there's one out there that will, given good form and club head, will match with you very well.

(I tried 34 different shafts last time I got fitted for a driver) It will help reduce side spin and optimize your launch angle thereby giving you more carry and consistency. 3, Don't give up on the woods. Unless you're a scratch golfer, adding more wedges will only mess you up. 4, see #1 again:) Remember to take all things in stride, it's just a game and your driver WILL get better with the right coaching and equipment.

How do Tour players shoot in the 60s on the toughest courses in the world when you can't break 90 on tracks that are a thousand yards shorter? Practice plays a big part. So do the natural gifts endowed to each and every card-carrying member of the PGA Tour. But there's more to it than that. Pros possess the secrets - the closely held keys to success - that most everyday players never hear about. Below, you will find a step-by-step guide to driving the ball like Gary Woodland, one of the longest drivers on the PGA Tour.

What It Is The way to add swing speed using your stance and swing width. Get yards without yanks. What It Does Creates width at every stage of your motion, helping you store precious miles per hour instead of wasting them before impact. Jeff Newton One of the biggest mistakes I see weekend players make is that they set up with their feet too close together - often barely shoulder-width apart. With a narrow base like that, you lose balance and fall backward through impact, especially when you try to swing fast.

When I want to drive the ball really far, I take my normal stance - which is fairly wide to begin with - then move my right foot to the right about six inches. This adjustment gives me a more stable base for improved balance and sets me up to trace the widest arc possible.

This is a good thing, because wide arcs give you more time to add speed. My timing also seems to improve with a wider stance. Jeff Newton I make my most deliberate takeaway possible. It's a timing issue for me - the slower I start, the more potential speed I can build into my swing. I think of it as a gradual building up of energy, not a quick pull to the top. Keeping it slow also helps me extend my arms so I can max out the width of my swing.

When I rush my move away from the ball, I get shorter arms and a narrower arc, which limits how much speed I can release on my downswing. I also have a very hard time making a full shoulder turn or a good transition at the top when I'm rushing. Think of your backswing as a way to store energy - don't use it all up at the start. Jeff Newton The transition is arguably the most important part of my swing.

If I'm not solid here, I don't feel I have much chance of delivering a powerful hit on the ball. The key for me is to be as smooth as possible with minimal tension in my arms or hands. You don't want any 'hit' in your transition, but rather a feeling of gradually changing direction.

I want to make sure I've got all my energy moving down and forward before I put any power into my swing. I can't stress this point enough, especially when I see so many amateurs trying to hit as hard as they can from the top. When you make this mistake you're losing all your energy much too early in your swing. By the time the club gets to the ball, the energy's mostly gone and you won't be able to hit it long or straight. Schecter Lee Every part of your setup and swing is vital for hitting long drives, but making contact in the center of the clubface is the single most important key. If you don't strike the ball on or near the sweet spot, you'll never hit long, straight drives consistently, no matter how hard you swing or how well balanced you are.

To groove center contact with your driver, slow your swing a bit - feel like you're trying to knock a line-drive base hit, not an upper-deck home run. Lunging at the ball with 90 percent or more of your strength is for the range, not the course. Make solid contact your priority and the homeruns will happen naturally.

Jeff Newton You've probably been told not to 'hit from the top.' That means not to step on the gas in your downswing the moment you complete your backswing. But the more useful phrase - especially for weekend players - is 'hit from the bottom.' Lay off the accelerator until you reach the impact zone.

Trust me: If you make a slow-and-wide takeaway and refrain from pulling down too hard right at the start of your downswing, you'll have plenty of speed left for impact to drive it past your buddies. Swinging for the fences is fun, but it only pays off if you get the early parts of your swing right. You know you're swinging fast in the right spot when you can really lay into the ball without losing your balance.